A full recap of SS17 fashion week through our eyes with detailed descriptions on each brand’s collection:
LONDON | Agi & Sam
In the eyes of Agape Mdumulla & Sam Cotton, 2017 man should be in touch with his feminine side but still lead with his masculinity and maintain a feeling of modernity, tradition, and elegance. By incorporating floral motifs, red/pink pop socks, and chunky Underground Creepers, Agi & Sam whimsically reworked traditional menswear and constituted their best version of modern man for Spring Summer 17.
LONDON | Berthold
Continuation of Berthold’s identity of blending technical-wear with structured garments, the brand has showcased a strong sleek collection. Beyond the normal dark tone and washed whites, the collection has introduced a bring bloody orange fits that create the spark.
LONDON | Astrid Anderson
Bringing a new era for both mens and womens sportswear, Astrid Andersen collided both luxury and sportswear into a well curated sport-luxe collection that’s paired with booming Hip-Hop music. Astrid’s swaggering, American-inspired sportswear is blended with performance fabrics, super thing nylon, and sand colored suede. In Astrid’s collection, it’s all about reproportioning and creating an unisex wardrobe for the new generation.
LONDON | Christopher Shannon
Denim now, Denim in the 80s, Denim in the 90s. Its all about denim. Christopher Shannon is taking us back to his roots of where the brand came from and his MA collection in Central Saint Martins in 2008. For this collection, he is hitting the “refresh” bottom, recalibrating the building blocks of his brand, and aligning his vision with the tangible – collection featuring multi-way T-shirts, denim jeans, denim tracksuits, denim footwarmer, and of course, more denim.
LONDON | Kiko Kostadinov
Not long ago, Kiko wowed the fashion press and rest of the world with his “Displacement” collection from his Central Saint Martins graduate project – distressing all STUSSY garments and piecing them back into one of one streetwear pieces. This time, with his new collection titled “Two Births, Two Deaths”, Kiko brings a new futurist workwear vibes with clean tailoring, tonal and understated colors, and the use of utilitarian textiles like Tyvek and Ventile. All of this happened on the last day of LCM, but Kiko didn’t disappoint. It was a promising start.
LONDON | CMMN SWDN
Inspired by a special trip to the vibrant city of Marrakech in Morocco, the duo Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund created the presentation set based on what they have experienced – chaos in the bustling market, mishmash of colors and smells, and most importantly, the compelling Moroccan vibes. Mixing West and East, this SS17 collection perfectly balanced both wearable staple items with strong stand out pieces in an unconventional color palette.
LONDON | Matthew Miller
It‘s fashion wartime. Mathew Miller is back to his best – weaving relevant cultural theme into his SS17 collection and made it into one intoxicating visual show. Titled “Tempest”, the collection is centered around skinhead culture and referenced on John Constable’s work “A Study of Clouds 1871” with a little touch of soft punk. It is both innocent and rebellious. Deconstructed kimonos, bleached denim, symbolic tee emblazoned with “Negasonic Teenage Warhead”, and millions of butterfly pins are all vital pieces that echoed Miller’s vision of the past, the present, and the future.
LONDON | Ximon Lee
Titled “HARD”, Ximon Lee’s SS17 collection is the exploration of the concealing and uncovering of the body. Throughout the show, we saw lots of bold and BIG designs in the form of heavy, boxy, and oversized silhouettes. The collection was like a collage of bold ideas and experiments – transparent garments, gigantic collars, edgy but tailored outwears. To be said, Ximon Lee defied the convention and awed everyone with a powerful and intriguing collection.
FLORENCE | Raf Simons
Florence recalling the best of the best. Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Raf Simons latest runway show not only was extraordinary and revolutionary, but also served as a meaningful and powerful moment of gay pride. Simons featured various images from the famous photographer’s archive, including nude men and erecting penis.Asymmetrical sweaters, long coats, printed aprons, leather slim jeans, and oversized tops were the common theme for Raf Simon’s SS17 collection while a troupe of mannequins strategically positioned proudly wearing Simons and Mapplethorpe’s artworks. Indeed, the best show yet.
MILAN | Damir Doma
Staged at Macao, a new centre for arts and culture in Downtown Milan and a perfect location for a beautiful ruined set , Damir Doma deliberately translated renewed energy and deconstructed elements into clothes – raw edges, patchwork ripped denim, long sit hoodie-shirt, and silk embroidered with the name of the collection “Never for money, always for love.” Just like the designer himself, the collection is filled with ease and love.
PARIS | Ami
Undoubtedly, Alexandre Mattiussi is an expert in reinventing modern uniform for the quintessential Parisian men. The garments are always easy to wear, but in a cooler and more carefree fashion. SS17 collection incorporated many layered looks that mixed casual streetwear, such as plain T and denim jackets, with traditional pleated trousers and sweaters. Honestly speaking, this is by far the most wearable collection debut at Fashion Week.
PARIS | Etudes
Parisian label Etudes Studio continues to grow with new creatives. This season the well-known designer team, working as a collective, inserts an unusual Parisian twist on the form that gives interesting proportions for SS17 with a quite cool – loose and light silhouettes pairing with warm and bright color palettes. Indeed, this is one sophisticated yet versatile collection that will not only make Parisian kids look effortlessly cool, but also the others.
PARIS | Y-3
Futuristic High Summer is what Yohji Yamato is aiming for next SS17. The designer brings a more functional, innovative, and athletic edge to this new Y-3 collection. Not only does the garments like single lapeled blazers, one-piece jumpsuits, baggy trouser, and rigid hoodies are pushing the boundaries, the new Y-3 sneakers are also on the mission to bring us to the moon and back. Everything is very with Yohji except that addition of indigo blue and high top hair models.
PARIS | Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh
Impressive finale for Fashion Week. From strength to strength, Virgil Abloh once again proves to the public and fashion critics that his brand is not just a hyped streetwear brand, but also able to being aligned with other luxury labels like Vetements, Raf Simons, or Gucci. Especially with this SS17 collection that has transparent T-shirts, high waisted trousers, big graphic knit sweater, long coats with glitzy embroidered scorpions, and an Umbra collection that included footballs-style low-tops and a set of patchwork flannel shirt. Addition to all of these, is the expanding A-list attendees and the phenomenal Virgil-remixed music.